Tuxedo Glossary
- Arm hole – the area of the jacket surrounding the top of the arm. In theory, the larger the armhole, the looser the fit of the coat and the shorter the length of the in-sleeve.
- Besom pocket – two strips of fabric piping above the pocket slit that comes together to form the coat trim. Found in satin or the same material as the coat.
- Button stance – the position of the top button of the coat, typically referred to as normal, high or low.
- Collar – the turned back material of the coat that follows the back of the neck.
- Cutaway – a formal coat usually in dark grey. Also known as the morning coat; traditionally worn in morning weddings.
- Dinner jacket – formal tuxedo style jacket with notched or shawl collar. Distinguished from a tuxedo coat by its white or ivory color.
- Director's suit – similar to a business jacket, worn for a daytime formal wedding only.
- Double-breasted – a coat or vest that overlaps itself in the front, often with six buttons.
- Flap pocket – traditional standard, top pocket on the coat with a piece of material that covers the opening.
- Floor-level peak lapel – a type of peak lapel on the coat, which points horizontal rather than upwards.
- Full dress tails – also known as a tailcoat. Short in the front and long in the back. The traditional black coat, acceptable for the most ultra formal occasions.
- Gorge – the angle where the lapel starts and the collar ends.
- In-sleeve – the distance between the underarm cross seam to the cuff of the jacket.
- Lapel – the turned back fabric that falls in front of the coat or jacket.
- Non-vented – The coat that is completely sewn closed around the bottom seam without a vent in the back.
- Notch lapel – the type of coat lapel with a V indentation at the collar level.
- Peak lapel – a peak at the top of the coat lapel that sharply points up and outward.
- Regular coat – the formal coat length which extends to the second knuckle.
- Shawl lapel – the coat lapel is curved, shaping uninterrupted down to the button at the waist.
- Stroller – type of formal coat with a regular cut but does not have a satin lapel. Commonly worn with contrasting vest and a four-in-hand tie.
- Tails – formal dress coat with a cosmetic vent in the back of the coat, creating tails. Also known as full dress, which has a tighter fit and tapered armholes.
- Tuxedo – the standard formal coat length, with single or double breasted satin lapels. Common word to describe all men's formal wear.
- Vented – a crossover slit opening in the jacket that allows for movement. Can have a center or side vent.
- Waist coat / Eton – a coat that ends at the waist and is tight fitting. Also known as the Spencer. Usually worn with matching or contrasting trousers.
- Welt pocket – a pocket on a vest or coat with a single strip of matching fabric.
Trousers
- Inseam – the measurement from the pant crotch down to where the pant leg falls on the shoe.
- Outseam – the measurement from the top of the natural waist to the point where the pant leg falls on the shoe.
- Satin leg stripe – a stripe of matching satin material down the outside side seam of the trouser.
- Stroller trouser – pants with a stripe of matching material (not satin) down the outside side seam.
- Triple pleated – a trouser that has three pleats at the waist band, allowing for a fuller seat.
Shirts
- Comfort collar – a comfortable formal shirt that has the top button on a sliding tab, allowing for less restriction around the neck.
- Crosswick – formal shirt with crossover collar, pleated front and button cover. A tie cannot be worn with this type of shirt.
- French cuff – a shirt cuff that has a wide folded back band, tied with a cufflink.
- Laid-down collar – shirt with a folded collar around the neck, commonly found in a shirt with pleats.
- Mandarin collar – a shirt with a banded collar that closes smoothly with button covers. Found in shirts with wide front pleats.
- Pique – white formal shirt with waffle textured front panel and cuffs. Commonly worn with matching vest and tie creating the most formal look.
- Wing tip collar – formal shirt with pleated front and collar wings that point out.
Vests
- Full back – a vest with a sewn full panel in the back.
- High cut – vest with more buttons on the front and higher up the chest.
- Pique vest – a white vest with waffle texture. Traditional vest, worn with pique shirt, white tie and tailcoat.
Ties
- Ascot – a folded scarf tie that is knotted so the fabric ties lie flat on each other. Pinned together with a stickpin or pre-sewn. Traditionally worn with a vest and the cutaway coat.
- Band bow tie – a pre-tied bow tie with an adjustable band that surrounds the neck and clasps. All rental bow ties are banded.
- Bow – the traditional butterfly tie, either pre-tied or requiring tying skills.
- Euroband – a four-in-hand tie with a larger knot.
- Four-in-hand – the common men's slipknot tie.
- Shar-pei – banded long tie that has a wide knot and is scrunched.
- Windsor – banded tie with wide knot. Looks stunning with a wing collar shirt.
Shoes
- Formal shoes – dress shoes in either leather or vinyl. Formal wear attire requires either black or white shoes.
- Patent leather – formal shoes with a glossy finish, traditionally in black.
Accessories
- Boutonniere – a small flower arrangement that is inserted into the boutonniere hole in the lapel of the coat.
- Button cover – neckline accessory that clips to the button of the collar. Worn with the mandarin or crosswalk collared shirt.
- Cuff links – jewelry that replaces a button at the cuff of the shirt, two pieces joined by a shank and chain.
- Cummerbund – a pleated sash wrapped around the waist, either patterned or plain.
- Pocket square – a dressy handkerchief worn in the coat pocket in lieu of a boutonniere.
- Spats – formal shoe cover worn over the top of the shoe, fastened by a strap that runs under the foot and buttons at the side.
Studs
small fancy buttons mounted on short posts which replace the shirt button.
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